Brake Fluid Flush

I flush brake systems every day and if you follow these instructions, you will be able to flush out your brake system in about 20 minutes, without any help. This will save you a trip to the shop and your brake system will last a lot longer. Before we get right into the instructions though, there is something that need to be cleared up. Something that a shop will try to scam you on and you will never know the difference. It is that there are 3 different types of brake fluids used in these systems, and there is one of them that is good forever, so changing it is a complete waste of time and money.

DOT3 and DOT4 fluids are hygroscopic. This means they absorb moisture from the atmosphere. As you might know, the brake system works on friction, and friction makes heat. Brake systems produce a LOT of heat, and the fluid can reach 400 - 500 degrees even under normal use on some vehicles. Moisture (i.e. - water) has a boiling point of about 200 degrees. When the fluid absorbs the moisture, it lowers the boiling point of the fluid and this is when the damage starts. Boiling creates gas which creates tiny air bubbles in the brake system. These tiny air bubbles actually cause the inside of the system to rust (corrode), and that is what damages master cylinders, calipers, lines, and wheel cylinders, as well as the ABS pump and other system components.

The contaminated fluid effectively destroys everything it touches. DOT3 and DOT4 fluids are good for a period of 2 years, and they should be flushed out. It does not matter how many miles is on it, or anything like that, because the only 'danger' to the fluid is moisture. If you live in an excessively humid area, you might want to test the quality of your brake fluid with litmus strips once a year. It is a test strip that you just dip it in the fluid and if it changes colors, you have contaminated fluid and need to flush it out. DOT5 fluid, on the other hand, is silicone based and actually repels moisture, so it is considered a 'Lifetime' fluid. So if a shop tells you that you need to flush your DOT5 brake system, you should leave there IMMEDIATELY. It is used on higher end vehicles and some sports cars. * When it comes to mixing fluids, you can mix DOT3 and DOT 4 fluids, because they are made of the same chemicals. But DOT5 fluid should not be changed or mixed with anything but DOT5, because of the silicone based chemicals and is different from the others.

Now you know which fluids should be changed, why they should be changed and how often to change them. We can now start gathering tools for the project. Here is the list I go by:

* A turkey baster
* An old coffee can
* 1 foot of clear vacuum hose to put over the bleeder screws
* 1 quart of DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid
* A rag
* A wrench for the bleeder screw (8MM or 10MM, on most vehicles)
Though it is not always necessary, if you need to jack the vehicle up, be sure to use wheel blocks and jack stands before working under it!

The first thing to do here is to get the fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir. This is where the turkey baster comes in handy. So suck all the fluid out of the reservoir and put it in the coffee can. Then wipe out the reservoir the best you can with the rag and refill it with fresh clean fluid and replace the reservoir cap. Now you have clean fresh fluid 'loaded up' to be run through the system. We go to a wheel. Pick any wheel you want. Farther from the master cylinder is better to start with, because it takes more fluid to reach the farther wheels.

Okay, so you are at the wheel you want to bleed, now you need to open the bleeder screw and put the hose on it. The hose should be tight fitting, so no air is allowed to suck back into the system. Dip the other end of the hose into the brake fluid in the coffee can, so the end of it is completely submerged in the fluid. This will also ensure that no air enters the system. Now you can go pump the brake pedal. Pump it very slowly about 3 or 4 times, and watch the hose for the fluid to come out clean and new. You will see it turn clear from the dark muddy color of the old fluid.. Once it comes out clear, close the bleeder and refill the master cylinder. Now you are ready to move to the next wheel.

It only takes about 3-4 minutes to do each wheel, so by the time you gather tools, and do the job, you are done in about 20 -30 minutes. Doing this 30 minute procedure (45 minutes if you are having a beer), every 2 years do systems that use DOT3 and DOT 4 brake fluids will keep your brake system in top shape for many years, and save you quite a bit in repair bills on the brake system. It will also help ensure the safety of yourself and everybody else who drives on the roads with you.

Thanks for reading!

Oil Filter Change

Changing the oil filter is one of the most important things you can do to your car to make it last longer. There are several different ways an oil filter can be attached to the engine's lubrication system, also. Most engines have a spin on oil filter that screws right on an adapter on the engine block. On four cylinder engines in front wheel drive vehicles, the oil filter is usually on the front side of the engine block just under where the exhaust pipe goes. On other engines, the oil filter is usually under the vehicle towards the back of the engine. Do not be fooled though, the oil filter can actually be located anywhere on the engine, so locating it should be the first thing you do. If it is in a location where you can get to it while the engine is hot, then that is better because the oil is more free flowing when it is hot. Just be careful not to get burned when you loosen the filter and the hot oil comes out from it. Other designs of oil filters, like on some diesel engines, involves a paper filter element that goes inside a 'glass bulb'. To change this type, you must remove the cover, and then drop in a new paper element. This is not a very common setup, but it does exist, and is something you should be aware of, if you plan on changing a lot of oil filters. Anyways, here is what you need to do in order to change the oil filter on most cars.

The first thing you need to do is gather up all of your supplies. This includes things like a drain pan to catch the oil, a few rags to clean up any mess, oil filter, oil filter wrench, some fresh oil, and anything necessary to get to the oil filter like a jack and jack stands. Getting to the filter is the first step, and this should be fairly self explanatory. You might have to use the jack and jack stands, or a set of ramps and wheel blocks, if you do not have access to a car lift. Then you would place the drain pan under the filter, and get the oil filter wrench to loosen the filter. Once it is loose, you can finish removing the filter, and drop it in the top of the drain pan. You will want to remove it from the oil and recycle it separately from the oil. Anyways, once the old filter is out of the way, you can get your rags, and clean up any extra mess that may have spilled, and wipe off the engine where the filter goes. Once everything is cleaned up, you are ready to put things back together.

Putting the oil filter back on your engine is not that big of a deal. All you have to do is put some oil on the rubber seal on the top of the new filter, and then screw it on until it is snug. Once it is snug, just give it another quarter to half a turn extra. You really do not need the oil filter wrench to put the new filter on, unless you are a 40 pound weakling. It can be done by hand. The only reason you need the wrench to remove it is because of the 'seal' that is created while the engine heats up and cools off.

Of course, there are a few things you can do to make the job go a lot faster, and they are to make sure you have your materials ready before you get started, and that they are the right ones for the job. There are different sizes of oil filters and oil filter wrenches. There is more than one mechanic that knows how frustrating it is to have too small or too big of an oil filter wrench. If this happens, you can either grab it with a big set of channel lock pliers, or run a screwdriver through it to use as a handle. Hopefully you never have to do anything that drastic, but now you know what has to be done if you have to.

White Smoke from Engine

Any time there is white smoke coming out of your car's exhaust system, it is an indication of a leak. This is not just any kind of leak, but a leak that is allowing either oil, coolant, or transmission fluid to get into the cylinders. The smoke is from the leaking substance not getting completely burned off like the air and fuel mixture does under normal operating conditions. In order to understand what is causing white smoke to come out of your car's exhaust pipes, you should become familiar with the different ways that these chemicals can enter the cylinders. Sometimes an engine that lets white smoke out of the exhaust system is completely normal because of condensation in the exhaust system being burned off.

Starting with the engine oil it should be common sense as to how it can be allowed to enter the combustion chambers in your engine, since oil is what lubricates all of the parts inside your engine. When oil burns, it leaves kind of a blue tint to the smoke, but it looks white to most people. After a few years of use, the rings that seal the pistons in your engine do not seal as good as they used to. There are scraper rings that are supposed to wipe the oil off the cylinder walls, and they get worn out also. When these rings wear out, there is a film of oil that stays on the cylinder wall, and when the combustion process happens, that oil gets burned away and is sent out the exhaust pipe along with the burnt air and fuel mixture. That is one way that oil enters the cylinders and cause white looking smoke to come out of the exhaust pipes. If this is the case, the engine will smoke the whole time it is running, and the exhaust will smell like burning oil. The only way to correct this situation is to re-seal the cylinders with new rings, which usually means a rebuild or an entire engine replacement.

One of the most basic ways this can happen is also very inexpensive to fix, and is completely normal. If the PCV valve is old it can leak and oil can be allowed to suck through the valve into the intake manifold. That is why you should change the PCV valve in your engine at least once a year if it needs it or not.

Another way that oil is allowed to enter the cylinders to be burned is through the valves. The valves in your engine go through machined surfaces that are called valve guides. These valve guides can also wear out, and let oil leak through them. That is the reason why there are seals on the top of the valves, to stop oil from dripping down the valve stem, and entering the cylinders where it can be burned. Worn valve guides can be replaced without rebuilding the entire engine, and if they are not that worn, you can get away with simply removing the valve spring and putting new seals on the valve stems. If the valve guides are worn too badly, however, the entire cylinder head will need to be removed from the engine, and rebuilt at a machine shop. When an engine smokes because of valve guide problems, it will only smoke for a few minutes after the engine is first started, and then it will stop smoking.

If the coolant in your engine is being burned in the cylinders and causing white smoke to come out of the exhaust pipes, you will know right away, because the smell is very different from oil. Coolant smells "sweet" when it burns, and can be evidence of a major engine problem. More times than not, white smoke that is caused by coolant entering the cylinders is an indication of more damage than if it were oil that was being burned off. The only way coolant can enter a cylinder is through a leak in the water jacket in your engine. A leaking water jacket is usually an indication of a crack in a cylinder wall, a head casting, or (if you are lucky) a leaking head gasket. Besides the only obvious fix for a cracked engine casting is to replace it, even if it is only a head gasket that is leaking there can still be major problems inside the engine because coolant does not compress when it is in a cylinder. Since the coolant does not compress, when the piston comes up on the compression stroke, it can actually bend the connecting rod that connects the piston to the crankshaft in the bottom of the engine. So if you have white smoke coming from the exhaust of your car, and it has a sweet smell to it, you might have a very expensive repair bill in the near future that requires complete replacement of the engine, and not just rebuilding it.

Another common cause of white smoke coming from the exhaust of your car's exhaust pipes really only applies to older vehicles with automatic transmissions and something called a modulator valve. The modulator valve hooks to the intake manifold on the engine, and the suction from the engine helps your transmission know when to shift. When a modulator valve gets worn out, it begins to leak and let some of the transmission fluid get sucked into the intake manifold to be burned in the cylinders with the rest of the air that goes through the intake manifold. Burning transmission fluid does not really have any kind of smell, you will see a lot of very thick white smoke though. Even though transmission fluid is actually good for cleaning out the inside of your engine, and will not damage it, you will need to address the situation very quickly because the engine can actually suck all of the fluid out of your transmission, leaving you with another very expensive repair bill for replacing the transmission.

The last common cause for white smoke to come out of the exhaust pipes on your car's engine is normal condensation. After a cool night, when you crank the engine the dew that collects on your grass also collects in the exhaust pipes on your car. Since the exhaust system heats up very quickly, the moisture also evaporates quickly, and can create some steam. This is completely normal, and there is no cause for alarm when this happens. About the only way you can prevent this from happening is to park your car in a climate controlled garage.

Okay, now you are familiar with some of the common causes of white smoke coming out of an engine's exhaust system, and hopefully you can figure out how to find the cause. If not, then looking at the spark plugs, checking vacuum hoses, and fluid levels will help you narrow down the part of the system that is leaking. Once you know what system is having the problem, you can use the process of elimination from the causes introduced in this article to find and fix the problem. Thanks for reading. 

If your engine is running hot, then you will want to read how to diagnose an overheating engine. The first thing to look for is air in the cooling system, so here is how to bleed the engine cooling system. If air keeps getting into the cooling system for no reason then you might have to diagnose a cracked head. Other causes of head problems would let themselves be known by white smoke from the exhaust. Of course, water in the oil does not have to mean head problems, so make sure to read about different causes of water in engine oil. If you do not use Anti-freeze, or engine coolant then you should know what to do when water freezes in your engine. If you live up north then you will definitely want to know how to install a block heater in your vehicle, for all those cold mornings, too. Remember, if the Radiator comes out to have different temperatures, it could be dirty, or it might be time to change the radiator.

Engine Belt Tensioner

When changing the fan belt tensioner on any engine there are a few things to keep in mind. The belt will usually need to be replaced, if the tensioner is bad. This is because the old one probably was thrown off the engine or has been squealing. Throwing the belt off the engine creases the belt, and it will want to jump off all the time after that. Squealing belts actually get glazed or burned, and once they start making noise, they never stop doing it. If your belt had been squealing, it might be a good idea to also clean the pulleys with a scotch-brite pad while it is off. This will make sure that the new belt has a nice clean surface to ride on, and the new tensioner will have less to worry about as it gets jerked around pretty hard as the engine pulses through its revolutions. Make sure you have a socket set, and some belt tensioners even have 'Torx' head screws holding them on (3.0L Ford V6).

Anyways, you are certain you have the right tools for the job and you know the way the belt was routed on the engine. If you do not know, or the diagram is missing from the under hood sticker on your vehicle, you can get a print out of the routing from the auto parts store, when you pick up the parts. Anyways, now you are to the point of changing the tesioner, the belt is off and the pulleys are clean, now you need to unbolt the bolt through the middle of where the tensioner pivots. If there is no bolt there, then it is under a 'cover' that you will need to pop loose with a screwdriver

Once you have the bolt out, the tensioner assembly will come right off with it. IF the engine is dirty, it will want to stay in place with the tab in the back that holds it straight and from twisting. If it does this, simply give it a tap and it will come loose. Make sure to clean all surfaces when you take it apart. Now it is time to put the new tensioner on the engine.

When you look at the back of the tensioner, you will notice a little 'tab'. That tab goes into a hole in the engine to stop it from rotating, and coming loose. Put the tensioner to the engine and tighten the bolt. It should be pretty tight, usually close to 30 ft/lb, but the repair manual should be consulted, if you are concerned with this. The Auto parts store might even be able to tell you the torque specification, on the accessory belt tensioner bolt. The main point here, is to make sure it m mounts flush to the engine, and is not 'in a bind' anywhere. Once you are happy with the bolt, and tensioner mounted to the engine securely, and properly, replace the 'dust cover' that may have been covering the bolt.

So you have changed the tensioner, and now you only need to put the belt back on the engine. I can offer the advice of being sure to start at the bottom, and work your way to the top. When you get to the last pulley, you should be able to have enough leverage to pull on the tensioner, and slip the belt over the last pulley. I usually make this one the alternator, since they are so easy to get to.

Rear Axle Seals

Here are some general instructions explaining how to change a rear axle seal on most vehicles. There are a few things needed, like:

1. Drain pan - Make sure to have this so you can catch any excess oil that may still be in the differential.

2. Jack, Jack Stands, and Wheel Chocks - Make SURE to use the jackstands, as they will save your life. Chock up the front wheels, as you might have the entire rear end up in the air.

3. Lug Wrench - To get the tire off.

4. Socket and Wrench Set - To remove the cover on the differential, and get the axle loose from it.

5. Seal puller/installer or other suitable tool - To remove and replace the seal. A screwdriver and a big socket usually work fine, if you don't have the tool.

6. Gear Oil - to put back in the rear end.

7. The new seal - The reason you are reading this.

8. Depending on design of the differential - a tube of Black RTV - Some covers are actually 'hammered in' You will want to get those loose with a hammer and screwdriver and break it loose little by little around the edges. Some axles unbolt straight from the rear end without having to remove the differential cover, and others have a pin and a clip that has to be removed from the differential to slide the axle out.

Now that we have the basic list of items needed to complete the job, The first obvious thing to do is to get that wheel off. So, get the jack and jack stands close along with the lug wrench, and loosen the lugs a little bit. Now it is time to jack the wheel up, and place jack stands under the rear end, so it does not move. Then take the wheel off the rear, and use it as something to sit on. Once the wheel is off, and the vehicle is safely supported, you will need to remove the rear brake drum to see inside there and get the axle off. On some bigger trucks, that is all that is required to pull the axle is to remove the brake drum.

As you can imagine there are many different ways axles can be held into the rear end. The only safe thing to say at this point is to consult the service manual for the vehicle. I am going to assume this is for a Chevy though, and keep going with the instructions, because they seem to be the most common ones to have rear axle leaks (besides the bigger trucks). If there is no way to unbolt the axle and slide it out, then there is a C-Clip inside the differential holding it in place. In this case, you will need to jack up both rear wheels, and secure them, but not necessary to remove the other wheel. This is so you can turn it once you get the cover off. So put the drain pan under the differential and start unbolting the cover.

When you get the cover off, and everything else drained out of there, you will want to spin the rear end, until you can see the pin that comes out of the center. This pin holds the axles in the differential, deep enough so the C-lips do not fall out. Once you remove that pin by unscrewing it, push the axle that is to be removed in, and remove the c-clip from inside the differential. Now you can slide the axle out.

Once the axle is out, changing the seal is fairly straightforward. Use your tools to change the seal, just make sure that the 'solid' part of the seal is towards you, and it will hold the oil in better. When you tap it in, make sure that it goes in straight and that it goes all the way down. There is no need to hit the seal very hard, as they usually are soft enough to just press back in with your fingers, if you get the rubber ones.

Putting it back together is reverse of removing it. The only thing extra that you will need to know is how to refill the system. Check out this article about how to change the rear gear oil, for those tips and instructions.

General instructions is usually all someone needs, but be sure to check your service manual, because there may be something very specific to your vehicle, before trying to do any repairs. Stay safe, and keep your car running for as long as possible!

Timing Belt Tensioner

When you change the timing belt, there are other things that need to be done. The tensioner and pulley are the main things that determine timing belt life. If the timing belt is loose, it won't last very long and neither will the rest of your engine. So this is something you want to stay on top of if you plan on keeping your vehicle for a long time.

There is really no way to change the tensioner pulley bearings without actually changing the entire timing belt tensioner pulley. At the same time, the timing belt tensioner pulley should be changed with the timing belt, to help ensure the job will last as long as possible.

Anyways if you want to get to that noisy tensioner pulley, the first thing you need to do is get to the timing belt. This involves pulling the accessory drive belt, and all of the accessories off the front of the engine. Then you have to remove the crankshaft pulley. An easy way to break that bolt loose is to put a long breaker bar on your socket, and secure it against the ground (noting the direction the engine turns). Then get in the car and bump the key to turn the engine just a little bit. That will loosen the bolt for you very easily if you don't have access to an air compressor.

Once you get the crankshaft pulley and dampner off, you can remove the timing belt cover. There are usually quite a few bolts holding these things on. Keep in mind on some engines, when this cover is removed, it has to be replaced. Yours may be one of them. Now, you have the cover off, and you are looking at the timing belt. The first thing you want to do, is line up the marks, if the timing belt is still on the engine. Then you can loosen the tensioner and remove the belt. Once the belt is off, it is simple as unbolting the timing belt tensioner pulley, and replacing it with a new one.

I know, sometimes it is easier said than done, but.. this can be done with basic hand tools, and no special skills on most engines. There is details that you will need, like timing marks, tensioning procedures, and torque specs. But it is not rocket science, it is still only a belt and a pulley. It's just buried way up in the engine behind everything else.

This can get quite involved on some engines. So if you think you may be in over your head and need some personal guidance, you can come talk to me personally at Just Answer. My name is ase_master327 on there. Just mention my name in your question, and they will make sure I get it. I can give you the instructions on most any repair on any vehicle. The site is not free to use, but you can pick your own price. Try going to a shop and naming your price, they will laugh you out the parking lot.

Thanks for reading, and let me know if you have any problems.

Oil Pan Gasket

Changing oil pan gaskets can be quite a pain. That is why it is important to make sure that there are not all their problems causing an oil leak on your engine. What seems to be and oil pan gasket leak could actually be a PCV System malfunction, so you’ll want to make sure that the PCV valve operates correctly and is not clogged before tearing your engine apart. The general instructions for changing an oil pan gasket are fairly straightforward on almost every vehicle. You have to raise the vehicle in the air and supported safely, drain the oil from the pan, un-mount the engine and raise it a little bit (on some vehicles), remove the bolts holding the pan, remove the pan, clean all gasket mating surfaces, then stick the new gasket to the engine or oil pan (with some sealer), and replace everything.

The tools for this kind of job can vary widely since not all engines are designed the same. You might have to remove the exhaust system or even the entire engine to change the oil pan gasket on some vehicles. However for the most part, this job usually involves moving the engine, so you will need the tools to do that. This is things like a jack and jack stands, or ramps and wheel blocks, a basic SAE or metric mechanic’s tool set (depending on the vehicle), and a way to lift the engine (jack or engine hoist).

So once you have ruled out any kind of PCV system malfunction, you can jack the vehicle up or whatever you need to do to be able to safely work under it. Once the vehicle is high enough, it is time to drain the old oil into a container and dispose of it properly. Do NOT re-use this old oil, as it will collect dirt and dust while it is sitting there waiting to be poured back into the engine. Something to keep in mind when removing an oil pan without a drain in it is to remove all the bolts from 3 sides of the pan, and then start slowly loosening the remaining bolts, to control the amount of fluid that is dumped out of the pan and into what you are draining it into.

 Now you can see what needs to be done to get the oil pan out of there. If you cannot access some of the bolts, then you will need t raise the engine. Also keep in mind that you need to have enough room, about twice the size of the oil pan itself, to get it out of there. So removing the motor mount bolts and raising the engine might be necessary. If you have to do this, just make sure that there is plenty of clearance to raise the engine without breaking anything on the top of it.

Now the engine is raised high enough to get the pan out and you can get your ratchet set and unbolt the oil pan. This is fairly straightforward, and if you cannot figure out which way to turn the bolts, then you have already come too far to back out now! Anyways, once the pan is out and separated from the engine, you need to clean the surfaces. This means getting them smooth and not slippery. Putting the gasket back on the engine is not that hard, if you are the one who took it apart. So let’s get to it. You need some RTV silicone to stick the gasket to the oil pan (which makes things way easier), make sure all bolt holes are lined up, and stick the gasket to the oil pan. Once you do this, it is a good time to take a short break to eat or something while the silicone dries. Then you can come back fresh minded and energetic to finish the job. There is nothing to putting it back together, just remember to not over tighten the bolts, or you will have a brand new bad oil pan gasket, and you will have to repeat the job because of tearing the one you just installed. Usually finger tight on all bolts, and re-check them, then tighten each bolt another ¼ turn, in a special order. This order involves starting in the middle of the bolts, and making an X-pattern working your way to the outer bolts. Then check it again, to make sure that the first bolts (middle ones in the ‘order’) are just as tight, but not tighter than, the bolts on the outer edges.

Now you have the basic knowledge needed to change the oil pan on almost any vehicle. Good Luck!

Front Axle Oil

Before you get started on this, you need to know some things These are things what kind of oil to put back in the axle, how much oil to buy, why it is being changed, etc. If there is a leak, it should be fixed immediately.. all that kind of thing. You will need a socket set, a drain pan to catch the oil, and a funnel, or even a hand pump, so you can pump the oil back into the fill hole. You will also need the equipment to safely raise the vehicle so you can work under it. This can be a set of ramps and a wheel block, or a jack and some jack stands. Either way, if it is not a pickup truck, then you will need some kind of way to do that.

Changing the oil in a front axle is not a hard task. It can usually be done in just a few minutes. Sometimes, draining the oil involves pulling the cover, like on four wheel drive vehicles. However on front wheel drive cars, Draining the axle oil is usually as easy as pulling the plug on the bottom of the entire transmission assembly. Just make sure to catch that stinky stuff in the drain pan, and recycle it properly at any gas station, repair shop, or auto parts store.

So far you have: jacked it up, locate the drain access, place your drain pan under it, drain the fluid, replace the drain plug, find fill plug about one third of the way up the side of the axle. On 4X4 trucks, it will be on the side of the carrier for the gears, on the upper half. You can usually take this plug loose wit a 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet on most any make and model. The square shaft of the tool will fit right in it sometimes you have to use an extension, too. Anyways, at this point you should have the fill plug out, and after jacking it up and all, you are about 15 minutes into it. Only about 5 if you have a truck!

Now, it is time to fill the oil. Cut the end off the oil jug, and stick something in it to break the foil, and then put the end of the bottle of oil in the fill hole, and give it a good squeeze. You will want to fill it with oil, until it comes out the fill hole. Make sure there are no leaks, and put the fill plug back in the hole. Sometimes it is easier to pump the fluid into the differential, though. The pumps that come off a gallon jug of hand cleaner are the best thing in the world for that. Just put a hose on each end of the pump, and stick one in the bottle, and the other in the fill hole. I have a contraption like this in my tool box, and it is the most used thing I have.

Anyways, you got it! As long as there are no leaks you should be good to go for a few more years on that, and it took less than 30 minutes. If you need to know how to do the rear oil, it is much simpler than on most car front wheel drive systems.

Check Brake Fluid

Many people overlook checking the brake fluid in their car, then wonder why brake system repairs are so expensive. Checking the brake fluid only takes a couple seconds and can save you thousands of dollars in repair bills. First, let's get as few things straight. Brake fluid does not 'wear out'. Some kinds of brake fluid become contaminated with moisture, and if your brake fluid is dark then it is most likely time to change it. Brake fluid should always look exactly as it did when it was poured out of the bottle. There are several types of brake fluids, and not all of them absorb moisture. The brake fluids that do not absorb moisture (DOT4, and DOT5), are permanent, meaning they never need to be changed or maintained, unless there is a leak.

Now we get to how to check the brake fluid. The master cylinder is at the end of the brake pedal, in almost all vehicles. So your first job is to locate it. On most cars, it is under the hood on the driver's side against the firewall. There is a black cap on it that specifies to use only a certain type of brake fluid in the reservoir. Do not get the brake fluid reservoir confused with the hydraulic clutch fluid reservoir on vehicles with standard transmissions. Sometimes they both get fluid from the same reservoir, but not always, so make sure that you have the right one. Then you can remove the cover from the brake fluid reservoir, and check the level. The brake fluid level should be about 3/8 of an inch from the top of the reservoir, and there is usually a set of marks to go by in the side of the brake fluid reservoir to make things easier. If the fluid is low, then it might be an indication of needing some new brakes, or an indication of a brake system leak, if the (BRAKE!) warning light is on. If there is a float in the master cylinder reservoir, then there will also be a low brake fluid warning system in your car. If the fluid is full, and this light is on, then the float is either stuck or bad (both are common problems). Make sure that you are not dealing with a leak, or a need for new brake linings before adding any fluid to the system, because they are specifically designed to only hold so much fluid.

Now that you know about how to check the level of the fluid, we will look into the dark color or muddy looking brake fluid that only happens on DOT3 brake fluids. The dark color is water that the brake fluid has absorbed. This is a normal part of how it works, but should be monitored. At the auto parts store, there are brake fluid test strips, or litmus strips. These can be dipped into the fluid so you can check the quality of the fluid. Remember, this applies to DOT3 brake fluid only. Less cars are coming equipped with DOT3 brake fluid every year, and the problem will soon take care of itself. DOT4 and DOT5 brake fluids actually repel moisture, and that makes hydraulic brake system parts (the expensive ones) last longer. You can replace a higher number brake fluid where it calls for a lower number. This means DOT4 and DOT5 are acceptable in DOT3 systems. However you can not replace a lower number fluid when it calls for a higher number fluid. So, that means that DOT3 fluid can not go in a DOT4 system. You should never mix brake fluids, either. If you make the conversion to a newer fluid, make sure to only use that kind of fluid from that point forward.

That's it! you now know everything you need to know about how to check the brake fluid in your car.

Rear Axle Oil

Changing the rear axle oil on any vehicle is fairly straightforward. If you need to know how to do it, here are some 'general instructions' off the top of my head. I did some time at a 'quick change and lube' shop, so I can tell you from quite a many hours of experience of doing one after another, after another on this. Do not put oil in a rear end that leaks axle oil. You will want to inspect it very carefully, and hope you are changing this oil only as a maintenance factor. Axle oil leaks can get very expensive

Jack the rear end up, and support it securely on both sides. I was in a pit (under ground) and the cars rolled over the top of it, that is the only difference, besides the methods we used to fill the system which you will find out about shortly. So you have the rear end up and supported on both sides, now look at the center of it. Some call it the pumpkin, on the rear end. If there is not a drain hole in the bottom of it, then you will need to get the rear cover off it. The gasket is only silicone, and everybody has silicone. Black RTV is the best for this application, if you have the extra money for it. Anyways, there is oil in there, and you will need to catch it. So, put your drain pan under the pumpkin, and either pull the drain plug, or remove the cover plate.

Once you get it drained out you may want to clean it up a little bit with some cleaners if you have the whole cover off it. Make sure everything is clean and the draining has stopped, and replace the drain plug.You are now, done draining it!

Leave the drain pan in place, and look on the middle of the pumpkin on the driveshaft side on the top half of the assembly, and you will see a small plug that you can fit a ratchet into. You may need an extension to reach it. Anyways, get it out of there, it is the fill plug for the differential. You will now open your axle oil and pour in into the fill plug, until it comes back out. When it does not take any more, then it is full, ad you replace the fill plug.

Getting the oil into the fill plug can sometimes be more difficult than it sounds, though. If the fill plug for your differential is in a tight spot, you will not have enough room to even get the bottle of oil in close to it. You can use a hose on the end of your bottle or make a pump to get it up there. Ours were controlled by pressure from air, and it shot out into the fill hole for us when we hit a button. Anyways, hand pumps work nice in tight situations. I keep one in my tool box, and I use it more than anything else in there, almost!

Keep your rear axle in good shape, and it will keep you happy for a long time. If you do a lot of fast acceleration, then you will want to change your rear axle oil a bit more often that recommended by the manufacturer. Always consult your service manual for specific things, like fluid type and capacity. This is only meant to be general instructions so you get the idea, of how it is done. The main thing is to stay safe, you don't want the pumpkin on your rear end to smash the pumpkin on your shoulders.

Locations: Oxygen Sensor

When trying to find the location of an oxygen sensor on your car, you should know that there is more than just one of them. Each side of your engine has two oxygen sensors, located somewhere along the exhaust system, depending on their names. They are called sensor 1 and sensor 2. This does not mean that there are always 4 oxygen sensors on a car, as there can be anywhere from one to four of these. That is why it is most important to know which sensor you are trying to locate before going in to change it.

Bank 1 or Bank 2

Each side of your engine, or row of cylinders, is considered a bank. A four cylinder only has one row of cylinders, so all sensors on that engine would be bank 1 sensors. If your engine is a V-6 or V-8 then you will also have separate banks. Bank 1 is the side of your engine that has the #1 cylinder. On GM and Chrysler products, the Bank 1 side is towards the front of front wheel drive cars, or on the driver’s side of rear wheel drives. Ford “V” style engine blocks are the opposite, and have the first cylinder on the passenger side on rear wheel drive vehicles, and firewall side on front wheel drive ones. If you are still confused, a quick check of which side of your engine contains the number one cylinder can be found by simply searching for a firing order diagram for your car.

Sensor 1 or Sensor 2

Each cylinder bank gets information from 2 oxygen sensors. This is why the names of sensor 1 and sensor 2 also have to be specified when trying to locate the oxygen sensor. Modern cars with four cylinder engines have 2 oxygen sensors. One of them (sensor one, or “S1”) will either be located in the exhaust manifold or in the exhaust pipe, just below the manifold but still very close to the engine. The job of sensor 1 is to monitor the efficiency of the engine. Sensor 2 is farther to the back of the car, either located in the catalytic converter, or in the exhaust pipe just behind it. There is a Sensor 2 (or “S2”), for each catalytic converter. The job of sensor 2 is to monitor the efficiency of the catalytic converter. So it can be a safe to assume that if you are having problems with sensor 2, then there might be a problem with the catalytic converter. The main problems that come up with Sensor 1 usually involve the heater circuit, which only lasts about 100,000 miles.

Tips and Tricks for Oxygen Sensors in your car.

The exhaust manifold is bolted to the side of the engine and has a big pipe running under the car bolted to it. You can usually reach these sensors from the top of the engine, but if you have to go through the bottom, be prepared to remove a protective cover under there, in order to get to the sensor. Getting the sensor off is usually fairly easy with the correct oxygen sensor tool which looks like a socket with a big groove cut out of it, or a 13/16 wrench which will not spread and slip on the sensor (if you use the boxed end). The socket design actually has a tendency to spread which ruins the tool and only makes the sensor harder to remove when you finally give up and put a wrench on it. Also, since sensor 1 is always the closest one to the engine be prepared to have to use some lube on it to get it out. It is not uncommon to have to turn a little then spray wd-40 on it, just so you can turn it a little more. When putting it back in, be sure to use some of the copper based anti-seize compound on the threads, so it is not as difficult to remove next year.

Now you know how to locate the oxygen sensor on any car, and can tell the difference between B1S2 or B2S1 in the descriptions. You should be able to get to the right sensor without any problems. If you need to know how to test it, then you can read this article about how to test an oxygen sensor. Stay safe, and good luck!

Horn Fixes

Horn problems come in many different flavors. They either don't work, are on all of the time, or only work when they 'want to'. Since it is not very cost effective for my customers to just start changing everything on the system and crossing their fingers to hope it works, there is some actual diagnosis that needs to be done. That is what I am here to explain to you how to do. If you want someone to tell you to just start changing things until it is fixed, then go read another article. Fair?

Okay, I see you are interested in getting things fixed right, the first time since you are still reading. So let's get down to the different types of problems and the diagnostic procedures that are associated with them. Before working on anything, the first thing to do is check the computer for codes. Many of today's cars have a body control module (B.C.M.) which play a big part in controlling the horn. So, you need to make sure that there are no trouble codes set. Not all trouble codes will turn on a warning light, so be sure to check them with the proper scan tool that can read codes from the body control module(not all of them can), if your vehicle has one. You also need to make sure that the different modules in the vehicle can communicate with each other. If there is a problem with communication, your scan tool will alert you. If you find any problems with those things, they need to be corrected before going any farther. If everything is 'all good there', then proceed with the inspection of the system.

To begin inspecting the horn system, here are the things you need to check:

* The fuse - If the fuse is blown, then there is a short in the system, and it needs to be found, or it will keep blowing.
* Check for improperly installed aftermarket accessories, such as radios or amplifiers and such, that might be spliced into the wrong circuits.
* Check for obvious damage to the related wiring, connections, and components that work the horn system.
* Check for corrosion or other debris at the point where the horn bracket is mounted to the vehicle. It can get in there and cause a 'bad ground'.
* Check the torque of the bolt holding the horn bracket to the vehicle. If it is loose, it can actually damage the horn, from a low voltage condition.

If all of the basic stuff passed the inspection, then we move on to the 'problem specific' diagnosis. We will work with a horn that does not work in this article. Other problems will be covered in other horn related articles. Anyways, you will need a test light, and probably the repair manual for your vehicle to go much farther.

Okay, so you got your test light and repair manual. Let's get started with this basic run down on diagnosing a horn that does not work.

1. With the key off, remove the horn relay and check for power from the relay coil wire and an external ground source. If there is power there, move on to step 2. If not, then repair the wiring problem between the battery positive terminal and the horn relay positive terminal, and the horn will work.

2. Put the test light between the relay positive coil terminal, and on the relay control circuit (one that goes to the button), and press the horn. If it has power move to step 3. If not, then do you remember that clock spring I told you about? Well, there could still be a problem with the button, if there is no air bags in the vehicle. Look in there, and you will see the problem. If it has air bags, then the steering wheel needs to come off. If not then you can change the button, with a cheap kit from the auto parts store.

3. At the horn switch, check power between positive terminal and a good ground source. If there is no power, then there is a problem in the horn switch itself. If there is power there move to step 4.

4. Get a wire with a 15AMP fuse in it, and run it between the battery and the output terminal of the relay socket for about 1 second. If the horn operates, change the relay. If not, then put the relay back in the socket move to step 5.

5. At the horn disconnect it, and put the test light between the power wire to the horn and a good ground source, and press the horn. If there is no power there, then there is a bad wire between there and the horn control terminal on the relay. If there is power, move on to step 6

6. Hook the test light between the power and ground terminals on the horn (if it has 2 terminals), and press the horn. If there is power there, then replace the horn. If there is no power there, then there is a power int he horn ground circuit. Remember the B.C.M.? That would be a possibility, here.

If you follow these instructions, you should be able to get most any horn back in working order, if it is dead when you try to use it. Oh, yeah I forgot to mention, if you need some discounts on auto parts, as a thanks for reading, type of thing. To see the latest promotions from Advance Auto Parts, look at my profile page. They usually have a 20% off total purchase sale happening, if you know what you need and can buy it online then pick it up at the store. I am always happy to help, as I know how it is to need it and not have anybody to turn to.

I hope this article and my resources have been helpful to you. Have a good day and thanks for reading! 

Vacuum Gauge Use

As the piston in your engine pulls down, it draws air into the cylinder. This creates a vacuum in the intake manifold, and monitoring this pressure can give you a good look into the health of your engine. That is done with a vacuum gauge. It is a must have for any mechanic's tool box, and anybody who tells you different does not have a clue what they are talking about. A vacuum gauge is nothing but a gauge with a piece of vacuum hose on it, that is used to measure the amount of pressure in the intake manifold of your engine. This is very important to monitor when diagnosing an engine, because you need to know how the air is moving through the engine as it runs, in order to diagnose many different problems. The only thing you need to know about hooking a vacuum gauge to the engine is to make sure that everything is hooked up. This means you will have to tie it in to the lines that are there. If you 'bypass' one of the systems that run off the vacuum hose you are tied into, then that can affect the readings of the gauge and ultimately lead to a false diagnosis (e.g. waste of time and money).

There is no mystery to how to read a vacuum gauge, and they even come with excellent instructions. But if you have one in your toolbox, and just do not know how to read it, then this article will prove to be an invaluable resource to you. So now you have the vacuum gauge hooked to the engine, but what do you do now, right? Well, about all you can do is watch the needle, and play with the throttle. Depending on what the needle does and how it reacts, you can determine what is wrong with the engine. There are 15 different ways the vacuum gauge can read, and here is a list of them, and what they mean.

1. A normal engine will have a vacuum reading of 20in/hg at sea level, and that number will drop 1 in/hg per every 1,000 feet of elevation above sea level. The needle will be steady and not moving at all on an idling normal engine with good compression, no vacuum leaks, and no ignition system issues.

2. When you open the throttle to make the engine accelerate quickly, the needle should drop down close to 0, very quickly. Quicker is better. Then as you close the throttle the needle should go up past the normal 20 in/hg to something like 25-30, then return back to normal after about 1/2 a second.

3. Racing engines with big camshafts will have lower levels of vacuum, and the needle will shake while idling about 1 in/hg. This is from the valve overlap on the big race car camshafts causing turbulence in the intake manifold at idle, since they are designed to run at high RPM, instead of for maximum fuel economy.

4. A normal engine with worn rings, or in bad need of an oil change will have the same 'lower than normal' reading like the race car engine, but the needle will still remain steady while the engine is idling. Then when you rev it up, the needle will drop all the way to 0. Then when you let go of the throttle to let it close, the needle will rise up to only about 23in/hg instead of the 25-30 of a normal engine. This is because the rings are not sealing good enough to pull the proper amount of air into the engine. At this point, you would change the oil, and try again.

5. If the needle has the right amount of vacuum while the engine is idling, but fluctuates 1-2 in/hg down, then the problem is a sticky valve. Valve jobs are not cheap, either.

6. A bigger fluctuation than the plain sticky valve issue would be a downward fluctuation of about 6-8 in/hg. If you see a big fluctuation like this, then the engine has a burned valve that is leaking the whole time the engine is running. To find this valve, you would do a compression test of each cylinder, and remove the head to change the burned valve.

7. A slow fluctuation of 2-4 in/hg means that there are some valve seating problems, and the best way to fix that issue is (once again) a valve job.

8. A needle that fluctuates 4-6 in/hg while idling, and gets bigger as you accelerate it, is an indication of worn valve guides. If this is the case, you would look for which spark plug was fouled, and either do the valve job, or 'try' replacing the valve seals to try to buy some time before the next valve job.

9. If the needle holds steady while idling, but fluctuates wildly (10 -14 in/hg) while accelerating, then that means that the valve springs are worn. They are much easier to replace than a valve, and usually do not involve removing the cylinder head to change.

10. A low and steady reading on the gauge indicates a problem with late valve timing, or a vacuum leak. You can spray flammable fluid like carburetor cleaner along your vacuum hoses and gasket mating surfaces to see if the engine revs up, in order to find a vacuum leak very quickly. If there are no vacuum leaks on the engine then it means it is time to do something about the timing belt before it breaks!

11. A steady reading at 15 in/hg usually means late ignition timing. Just advance the distributor until it comes up to normal. If the needle also pulses, then check the gap on the spark plugs as at least one of them will be worn or too big, causing a pulsing fluctuation.

12. A low reading of 3-6 in/hg while the engine is idling is an indication of a major vacuum leak. This will usually be something like a throttle body or carburetor gasket. Look and listen for big vacuum leaks in the engine, they will be fairly obvious to hear while the engine is running, once you are aware that there is a problem in the system somewhere. Other than that, you will have to go through the whole vacuum system and make sure all the hoses are hooked up properly.

13. A needle that starts out normal, but drops as the engine runs more and more is a sign of a bad head gasket. Though vacuum gauges are not usually used to diagnose a head gasket type of issue, if this happens you can rest assured that there is definitely a blown head gasket in the engine.

14. If the reading on the needle starts out normal, but decreases to 0 as the engine runs and before dying, that is an indication of a clogged exhaust system. This can be verified by loosening the exhaust from the engine and runningn it and making sure that there are no other problems on the vacuum gauge.

15. If you have a carbureted engine and the needle fluctuates between 13-17 in/hg, then you need to adjust the air/fuel mixture screws for the idle circuit. Once you get it right, then the vacuum levels will get steady and level out to normal.

I hope this helps you figure out what is wrong with your engine as quickly and efficiently as possible. You have learned from a pro, so now you know there are no magic tricks or anything like that involved with using a vacuum gauge. If you do not have one, you should get one, as they only cost about twenty dollars, and can save you a ton of money versus taking it to a shop for a diagnosis that may or may not be correct. I mean, does the mechanic at the shop you work at know how to use a vacuum gauge, and what all those needle reactions mean? If not, then point them in this direction.

Thanks for reading. 

Why Engine Won't Start

It takes 3 basic ingredients to make an engine run, and if you have an engine that will not start, then it is missing at least 1 of those 3 things. The 3 basic necessities are spark, fuel, and compression. There are quite a few different individual things that will cause a car to crank but not start. For this reason, you need to find out which system or set of systems is missing up. In other words, which of these three basic things are missing. You need to look into the engine for these things. Often this is not possible to do without special tools, but if your engine has spark plug wires, you can easily pull one loose to check for spark, which will be explained.

When the engine does not start, the first thing you need to do is check the fuel system for proper operation. This is easily done by spraying some starting fluid, gas, or other flammable liquid in the engine. You can either open the throttle and spray it in there, or spray it in a vacuum hose that is connected directly to the intake runners that et air into the engine. If the engine starts, then the problem is in the fuel system, and a bad fuel pump is a likely cause, so you would look into if the fuel pump is coming on, and building up the right amount of pressure, etc...

If the engine does not start when you spray the flammable liquid in it, then the problem is not likely to be in the fuel system and is probably going to be in the ignition system. To check for spark is easy on most engines, just pull a spark plug wire loose, and stick an old spark plug in it, while holding the spark plug to the engine block. Be sure to wear a glove so you don't get shocked, and have someone try to start the engine. If the spark plug does not spark, then there is a problem in the ignition system. If it does spark, then there is either going to be a problem with the firing order, or compression in the engine.

If the spark plug is getting spark or not, you need to check for compression in the cylinders. This is easy by pulling out a spark plug, and sticking your finger in the hole, and have someone try to crank the engine. The cylinder should build up enough pressure to push your finger off the hole. There is usually close to 150 PSI built up in engine cylinders on your car. If there is not any compression building up in the cylinders then you will want to make sure the camshaft(s) turn(s). If the camshaft does not turn then there is a possibility that valves could be bent in the engine, causing you to remove the head to fix them. If this happens it will be because the timing belt has broken.

Now you know what to look for, so you can find which systems are messing up in order to get your engine cranked up again. If you need to know specific information about your vehicle, be sure to see the repair manual, which you can usually find online for free.

Water in the Oil

When you check the oil in your engine and it looks like someone poured a chocolate milkshake in your engine, then it is safe to say that there is water in the engine oil. When most people see water in the engine oil, they immediately think about a blown head gasket. Although it is true that when a head gasket leaks, it can cause water to mix with the engine oil, it is not always the cause. Depending on the design of the engine water being mixed with the oil can be caused by something as simple as a leaking intake manifold gasket.

If the engine in your vehicle is a “V” style engine with the intake manifolds that seal to the block, you should be aware that the oil gallery is directly underneath the intake manifold. You should also be aware that coolant circulates through the front and rear ports on the intake manifold, to provide cooling to the cylinder heads. Of course, there is a gasket between the cylinder head, and the intake manifold. Some ports hold vacuum to supply air to the cylinders, and some are under pressure because they are part of the engine’s cooling system. There are also seals between the intake manifold and the block, but they are not important for this situation.

Anyways, in the name of being environmentally friendly there was a new type of antifreeze developed that was safe for animals to lick up without being poisoned. This is because the new coolant is made out of food byproducts. Not bad, huh? Very bad idea though. Food has bacteria in it, and the bacteria eat everything it comes into contact with. These bacteria eat through the weakest point first, and that is the intake manifold water jacket gasket. Once that happens, you have hot pressurized water spraying the inside of your engine. Sure there are tablets you can add to your cooling system with this kind of antifreeze that will protect the surfaces on the inside of your engine’s cooling system from the bacteria, but they are not generally available to the public, and they are not something that everybody knows about. The auto manufacturers sure pulled a smooth one on that, but who is going to argue and say that being environmentally conscious is a bad thing?

Of course, if your engine is not the “V” style engine, then you will be removing the cylinder head from the engine to find out what happened to make water and oil get mixed. To sum it up, if water is mixing with the oil in your car’s engine then there is a leak in the water jacket of the engine that is letting the water spray into the crankcase. Other things that will cause this to happen, besides leaking intake gaskets (on v style engines) and head gaskets, are cracked engine castings, like the intake manifold, cylinder head, or even the engine block. Normally if the engine block gets a crack that allows water and oil to mix, it is in a cylinder wall.

Now you have a better idea of what to look for, when water and oil start mixing and your engine oil looks like chocolate milk. Just because water and oil are mixing, it does not always mean that you have to rip the heads off. On some engines it can be fixed with a $15 gasket, and about 1 hour worth of work. It should only take an hour if you are also the only one who is watching the barbecue pit, with having to wash your hands every time you tend to it, and all that.

If your engine is running hot, then you will want to read how to diagnose an overheating engine. The first thing to look for is air in the cooling system, so here is how to bleed the engine cooling system. If air keeps getting into the cooling system for no reason then you might have to diagnose a cracked head. Other causes of head problems would let themselves be known by white smoke from the exhaust. Of course, water in the oil does not have to mean head problems, so make sure to read about different causes of water in engine oil. If you do not use Anti-freeze, or engine coolant then you should know what to do when water freezes in your engine. If you live up north then you will definitely want to know how to install a block heater in your vehicle, for all those cold mornings, too. Remember, if the Radiator comes out to have different temperatures, it could be dirty, or it might be time to change the radiator.

When to Change Oil

Proper maintenance of your engine's lubrication system will help ensure a long life of the engine. Let's get something straight. The reason for having to change the oil is contamination. Oil doesn't 'wear out'. If it weren't for contamination, you would never have to change it. Oil contamination comes in the form of blow-by gasses. This is the small amount of air/fuel mixture that escapes the cylinders through the rings, on the compression stroke. Yes, all engines do it. Blow-by is a normal part of engine operation. That is why there is a PCV system, which should also be serviced with an oil change. It consists of a crank case air filter, and a PCV valve.

When you check your oil and it is a quart low, it is usually from the fuel that has contaminated it and broke it down, through the normal blow-by. This is when you should change the oil.

A warning about those high price synthetic oils:
They don't get contaminated. Do you think that's a good thing? I hope not, because this will let the blow-by gasses (raw fuel) sit on top of the oil in the pan. Now when the engine is running, there is no oil in the pan it is up in the engine, doing its job. This leaves a straight shot of raw, uncontaminated gas in the bottom of the oil pan, for the pump to suck it up. Once the oil pump sucks up gasoline, it is damaged. In my 11 years as a shop owner, I have never changed an oil pump on an engine that didn't use synthetic oil. That right there should tell you how important it is to use the proper engine oil that is recommended by the manufacturer of your vehicle.

When choosing the type of oil for your engine, the name on the bottle makes no difference at all. It is the API rating that you should pay attention to. If the oil doesn't match the API rating that is recommended for the engine, then it is the wrong oil. Fancy stickers and expensive brand manes will not keep your engine running longer, though some of them do offer extra warranties. Choose your oil wisely, and take the advice from the people who make your car as well as the advice from me as the one who works on your car.

Remember, synthetic oils are bad okay.

Common Mechanic Scams

This IS the scam in repair shops. I know it, because I see it all the time. I own a repair shop so I can tell you the absolute truth. Also, for other shop owners, if this makes you mad, then you must be taking part in it and you're busted.
Got it? Good, lets get to business.

Let's say you have a 1995 Chevy 1/2 ton truck with the 350, and it needs brakes, a wheel bearing, and new rotors because the old ones were chewed up pretty good. You take it to a shop and get an estimate, and it looks like this:

Inspect the brakes- 18.00
R&R front calipers-126.00
R&R disc pads- 84.00
R&R Rotors-126.00
R&R Front Wheel bearing- 78.00
R&R Wheel grease seals-138.00
Re-Pack the bearings- 60.00
Misc.- 4.73

Grand total: 634.73 (labor only)

You think 'not too bad', huh? You get what you pay for.
Parts are another thing, but that is for a whole other reason. I'll explain that part later.

Now, since you have to remove everything to get to the wheel seals, then that is actually the stopping point of the tear down process. Replacing with new parts is actually easier for the technician, because there is less cleaning involved. So this speeds up the process a little bit.

If you brought it to me, I would encourage you to get a quote from another shop first, and bring it back. Then watch your eyes light up, when I hand you my bill.

Inspect the brakes- 18.00
R&R Grease seals-138.00 (since this is the furthest you have to go in to fix it)
Misc- 4.73
Grand Total: 160.73 (labor only)

And if I wasn't busy, you would be back out on the road in about an hour. Try that at other shops...Yeah right!

Now, parts are another thing, like I said earlier. Most shops use 'house brand' parts. There is nothing wrong with them. They always meet or exceed OEM specifications. If they didn't then they wouldn't get used at all. Yes, bad parts situations do happen, but reputable shops are covered by the part manufacturer or vendor on warranty issues. Also, since the shop is such a good customer, they usually get about a 30% discount on parts, and they pay a bill once a week.

The rule of thumb, on this is about 150%, some charge way more. If you have to order a $1.00 part, you charge the customer $1.50. Some parts are hundreds of dollars so it adds up very quickly. They get the parts from a discount parts house, and then call Auto Zone, to get the price and multiply it by 150%. This is really for insurance, though. Things come up, parts break when you touch them, bolts round off, all kinds of evil things can happen during the repair process.

Plus, they're in the business to make money. Most shops won't install a part that you bring them and still warranty it, and still charge you $634 to put it on.

The best thing you can do is get an estimate first, just to see how they do business. Use my 95 Chevy truck example, when you call them. My shop rate is set at &60 per hour, the average is $63 per hour.

Thank you for reading, and I hope this helps you find a good shop in your area. If you want to talk to me, just click the ad somewhere around here that says something about talking to mechanics, you might even get me!

If you follow this advice you will save thousands of dollars over the years on repair bills. 

How to Bleed Radiator

Just so you know, the only radiators that ever need 'bleeding' are the systems on (usually front wheel drive) vehicles, where the point where you add the coolant is lower than the highest point in the cooling system. Since water does not go 'up hill', you will need to open a bleeder screw at the top of the cooling system (usually where the top radiator hose meets the engine), while you fill the system up. If you do not do this, then there will e a big air bubble in the top of your cooling system and the coolant will not be able to circulate through the engine, and make things overheat.

The only time you need to bleed the cooling system in your car, is when you work on it, and fix the leak or other condition that caused it to have to be opened up and worked on in the first place. This is not something that you do as a 'maintenance item', but the final steps in working on certain cooling systems, as mentioned above. It is no longer necessary to change the coolant on newer vehicles, as they are equipped with (pricey) lifetime coolant. The only time you need to buy any of this stuff is when you had some leak out. When you make a repair to the cooling system, you can pour the same coolant right back in the engine that you had to drain out of it.

The best way I know to tell you how to do bleed the system is to explain to you exactly how I do it. So here goes! Okay, you have fixed the cooling system, and now you are ready to fill it back up. So pour in the proper coolant mixture for your car in the cooling system reservoir until it comes to the top, and you cannot add any more. Then look at the point where the upper radiator hose meets the engine. This is usually the thermostat housing. The thermostat should be changed as a maintenance item, see your owner manual for the maintenance intervals. Anyways, on that thermostat housing, there should be a small bleeder screw. If it is not on the thermostat housing, just look for the highest point on the engine, ad there will be a small bleeder screw (if your vehicle requires it) If not, then don't look too hard for it, because your vehicle might not even need one. At this point you are going to open (or remove) that screw.

Once the bleeder screw is out, you can crank the engine and turn the heater on. Turning on the heater circulates the coolant throughout the entire cooling system, so you can 'chase' the air out of it. So with the heater on, and the bleeder screw open, add the rest of the coolant until it comes out the bleeder screw without any air bubbles. It should be a steady stream. Once you get that steady stream of coolant, you can replace the bleeder screw, and the radiator cap. Continue to let the engine run, while you check your work for leaks. A good way to find out if there is a leak is to place a clean piece of cardboard under the engine and areas of it that you were working on. If anything drops down on that cardboard, you will be able to see it right away.

At this point I will assume that you do not have any leaks, so continue to let the engine run until it gets up to the normal operating temperature. This is when the electric fans will turn on. One the fans turn on, let the engine run for about ten more minutes. This is important because if there is an air bubble in the cooling system, then it will start to run hotter than normal in this time. If it does start to overheat, you will need to, bleed the system again, and try again. If it still overheats, then you will need to double check your work on the repair (because it probably wasn't fixed right or the wrong parts were changed. I have written an article about how to diagnose cooling system problems that has helped many people, and here is a link to that, if you need it.

Hopefully you can get your car back on the road with as little headaches as possible with the help that I offer you in my articles. I hope they are as informative to you as it brings me joy to be able to share my knowledge with others. Thanks for reading, and keep it cool!
If your engine is running hot, then you will want to read how to diagnose an overheating engine. The first thing to look for is air in the cooling system, so here is how to bleed the engine cooling system. If air keeps getting into the cooling system for no reason then you might have to diagnose a cracked head. Other causes of head problems would let themselves be known by white smoke from the exhaust. Of course, water in the oil does not have to mean head problems, so make sure to read about different causes of water in engine oil. If you do not use Anti-freeze, or engine coolant then you should know what to do when water freezes in your engine. If you live up north then you will definitely want to know how to install a block heater in your vehicle, for all those cold mornings, too. Remember, if the Radiator comes out to have different temperatures, it could be dirty, or it might be time to change the radiator.